Fornino — Greenpoint

Chef/owner Michael Ayoub’s wood-burning oven carries adds a touch of elegance to the laid-back vibe of this section of Williamsburg. Enter a narrow room with wooden tables and hand-blown glass fixtures, the kind that add to the ambience rather than detract from it. In the back dining room (an outdoor turned indoor greenhouse area), enjoy the view of the potted herbs that will soon be atop a disc of pizza. This is artisanal pizza at its finest—Ayoub uses organic flour, local produce and an array of artisanal cheeses. Far from the greasy, mozzarella slices that drip onto the sidewalk, the pizza served here is fresh, savory and sublimely mind-blowing. With toppings such as pancetta, gorgonzola, lamb sausage and truffles, it’s not easy to make a decision.

What's more, there is more: try the antipasti, clams or the daily pasta. Look for quality products, smoky flavors and those thin Italian crusts that confirm you have wandered into a good thing.

The all-Italian wine list features several vintages at around $20 a bottle. Service here can be fantastic or dippy, depending on the server and the level of ennui that he or she is suffering from.