Since 1937, Le Veau d'Or has been a staple and a landmark to the Upper East Side, with a battalion of devoted regulars who will sing its praises. It's solid, traditional Parisian cooking, prepared expertly by chef Marin Martin, and it's about as old school an eatery as you could ever hope for, a vestigial tail that the gentrifying neighborhood can not cut off, thanks to one of the restaurant's biggest fans: the man who owns the building.